• Currants

    I came across currants in the Nourse Berry Farm catalog from which I have bought strawberry plants in the past. They caught my attention because they grow in Zone 3. In Jackson Hole, where we have two seasons, winter and the 4th of July, we'll eat anything that can survive the winter. I can't say for sure that I had ever eaten a currant. When I cooked in restaurants, I recall seeing dried currants but I can't recall what we did with them or how they tasted. I mostly remember their being mentioned in various works of English literature. I certainly had never seen a fresh one. I thought, if they will actually grow in Jackson Hole, and they're good enough for the Queen, I might as well give them a try. So three years ago I planted eight bushes of different varieties. It took the first two years to get them established. This year we got a significant amount of fruit.

    The currants grow like mini grapes. In tight beautiful bundles near the ground. The berries have a tart, earthy taste. Some are quite tart and better for mixing with food. We found the lighter colored pink and white ones to be the tastiest for fresh eating. The varieties are called Blanka and Pink Champagne.

    Normally, we only have moose in the yard in the winter but we did have one moose slip in and prune the currant bushes this summer. You can see nibbled branches in the photo above. Fortunately the moose just had an appetizer and didn't do any significant damage.

    Though the kids were skeptical of the tart flavor at first, after watching them grow, picking them and playing with them, they were eating them by the handful. It is amazing how many unusual things kids will eat when they see them growing in the garden.

    I am still experimenting with different uses for these abundant little gems. Countless references to jellies, jams and desert sauces in English literature come to mind. The other thing that currants seem to be exceptional for is mixing with meats. The sweet, tart, earthy flavor seems to make a strange kind of magic together with meat. Whether added to a braise, used in making a savory sauce or mixed into a chicken salad, as I did in the recipe below, they add a certain special flavor I have never experienced previously.

    Ingredients

    Two handfuls of leftover roasted chicken chopped (Wyoming Chicken Ranch Range Fed).

    1-2 whole green onions or shallots chopped (garden fresh).

    Two handfuls of baby to teenage mustard greens chopped (garden fresh). Arugula is lovely here instead.

    1 1/2 handfuls of fresh currants. I've used some that I froze as well. They work fine.

    1 T mayonnaise

    Generous slather of olive oil

    Salt and pepper

    Mix it all together. YAHTZEE!

  • Morel Mushroom Hunting

    In the ongoing quest to feed the family using local, natural products; morel mushroom hunting has become an annual right of late spring in Jackson Hole. The hunt for mushrooms is a mystery for many varieties of mushrooms. The location of good patches is a closely guarded secret. In some years the right combination of weather will cause them to spring up all over the valley. Most years, though, it is a frustrating sometimes feudal effort to locate them in just the right time and place. There is one sure fired method that one can always count on in the Rocky Mountain west and that is forest fire burn areas. The spring following a forest fire you can always count on there being a lot of morels. You still have to wait for the right moment in, the complex matrix of weather events that tell the morels when to pop up but when it is on, it usually way on.

    In late June, the word came down from some other mushroomers in Jackson that things were happening in the in the New Fork burn area near Pinedale,WY. This had been a big 40,000 acre burn last summer. At 40,000 acres it not a big deal to keep it a secret. There were plenty of mushrooms for everyone.

    Early the next morning Marc Hirshfield and I loaded up in his truck with USGS maps and headed for the burn area. Marc is the owner of Betty Rock Cafe and and a partner in the Rendezvous Bistro, two of Jackson Hole's best dining institutions. It took a couple hours to get to Pinedale and navigate the maze of Forest Service roads to find our way into the depths of the burn area. Before we had even unloaded and geared up for hunting, I found my first morel.

    Walking through a heavy burn area is like no other place I've been. There is a strange beauty to it. This area was totally lifeless except for morels.

    For the first couple of hours we collected many mushrooms here and there. Any normal time it would be considered good harvesting. Being that we were in a burn area though I was looking for the motherload. Just as we were starting to head back to the truck to drive to a new spot we struck gold. All of the sudden there morels as far as you looked in any direction. The next three hours were spent picking the morels as fast we could crawl or bend over and cut them off.

    Marc harvesting in his mycologist ensemble

    As our backs began to get sore and our bags got full, it became time to head for the barn. Once we got back in cellphone range we called ahead to let friends and family know to meet at Marc's house for a morel feast.

    There are limitless uses for morel mushrooms. There subtle earthy flavor and unique texture make them wonderful in many dishes. When they are fresh out of the woods it doesn't take much and you don't need to mess around with them to make them taste great. Since we had a hungry group of mushroomers waiting for food we didn't have time to get fancy anyway.

    We started the evening with appetizers of straight morels sauteed with a generous about of olive oil, salt, and a finely chopped rosemary, green onion and garlic tops plucked fresh from the garden.

    The main course was pizza's on the grill. My latest advancement in my never ending quest to make the perfect pizza is letting the pie dough age in the fridge for many days. The batch we had that night had been festering for a week. I think it develops some kind of sourdough phenomena. I don't know the details but I know is it gets soft, stretchy and delicious.

    Pizza dough recipe:

    8 cups of flour. I used a high gluten, all-purpose, all natural flour from Montana Wheat. You can use half semolina or whole wheat.

    2 tablespoons Honey. Sugar or maple syrup ok.

    2 cups tepid water

    2 teaspoons salt

    1/4-1/2 cup olive oil

    I use my kitchen aid with a dough hook. Add water or flour as needed to get the dough to form. Finish with some kneading by hand. I put the dough in the fridge in a bowl or ziplock with some olive oil rubbed all over it. Let it proof in the fridge for 1 day to a week. You can let rise traditionally out of the fridge for same day use.

    We made a couple of different pizzas using mozzarella, goat cheese, prosciutto, chopped scallions, chives, garlic greens and different herbs like rosemary, thyme and sage.

    A few techniques I use for grilled pizza.

    1. Roll out the dough thick or thin. (Having grown up in central Ohio,one of the under appreciated thin crust pizza centers of the Universe, I like thin crust). Marc who serves pizza in their restaurant can throw and spread the crusts by hand but I need a rolling pin.

    2. Slather the pie in olive oil and grill one side. Lid down. Careful not burn it!

    3. Saute or grill the mushrooms. I have a mesh screen designed for cooking pizzas on that is great for putting the morels on the grill without losing them. Toss them in a bowl with a generous amount of olive oil, salt and herbs.

    4. Put toppings on the grilled side. Put a little salt on too.

    5. Put the pizza back on the grill lid down. If you can turn off part of the grill or move coals to one side it is best to put the pie away from the direct heat so it has time to melt the toppings before the bottom burns.

    Enjoy!

    Coyote Loops freshest salad. Watermelon and you have a feast!

    Moreling Tips:

    1. Find an experienced mushroomer. Charm them into taking you hunting.

    2. Collect mushrooms in a mesh bag so the you distribute spoors around while you are hunting. More morels next year!

    3. Cut the morels off a little above ground level with a knife. Pulling them out of the ground disturbs the mysterious underground network of mushroom life. It also keeps you from getting a lot of dirt/ash in your mushroom sack. I like a fairly long 4-5 inch one handed opening pocket knife. If you need to use both hands to open the knife it slows down the picking or encourages you to walk around with the knife open which can lead to stabbing yourself when you trip over an unnoticed rock.

    4. Don't wash the mushrooms. They are like little sponges. You want them to soak up yummy not water. You can brush them off. I find that them shaking around the mesh bag does a fairly good job of cleaning. I don't worry much about eating a little dirt and ash from the middle of nowhere in the Wyoming wilderness. Compared to the innumerable unknown in ingredients in a McDonalds meal, a little dirt doesn't seem so bad. Terroir baby.

    5. Mushrooms can be eaten fresh for several days. As soon as they start to go bad they should be frozen or dried. I dry them for a few hours in the oven with the door open at 150-175 degrees on my mesh pizza trays. They should be like crunchy Styrofoam when they are dry. MAKE SURE THEY ARE FULLY DRY BEFORE STORING IN AN AIRTIGHT CONTAINER. I had one batch that wasn't fully dried and lost about 20% due to mold. TRAGIC!!

    6. Reconstitute in water for a couple hours before using. They will be almost as good as new. Use them in any recipe that calls for mushrooms.

    A few favorites of mine are:

    1. Handmade pasta with sauted morels, herbs, garlic and olive oil and/or butter.

    2. Braised chicken with wine and morels.

    3. Stir fry with pork, morels and garden fresh vegetables.

  • Tales of the Super Bread

    Epic battle of man versus nature turns into opportunity to test the Super Bread knife.

    My ½ acre property sits in the middle of old ranch land in Jackson Hole WY. Some is still ranch, most is smaller Gentleman’s Ranchettes. Irrigation ditches dug mostly by hand in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s run throughout the area. Due to many years of neglect, the later 5 years on my watch a large willow tree’ s roots had grown over a culvert in the irrigation ditch that runs under my driveway. Legally property owners are responsible for the water being able to flow through their property.

    This year the roots had grown so large that they were obstructing the flow so much that it was flooding much of my upstream neighbors lawn. The water started running through the ditches a couple of days before I was to depart for the 2009 Blade Show in Atlanta, GA. It takes a few days for it fill and flush the winter’s debris. Not until I was literally leaving did it become clear that my roots were backing water up into the neighbors yard.

    I made a few feeble attempts to clear it with a pick and pry bar. I quickly realized I would need power. I got a neighbor who has a mini backhoe to come and clear it the next day and I left town.

    My neighbor came over as promised and dug a deep trench clearing out the front of the culvert. Unfortunately that only revealed the fact that the roots had grown deeply into the culvert and some of the willow root mat that he had scraped free had gone into the culvert and plugged it entirely. Some valiant neighbors pitched in and cleared the blockage and got it back to original poorly draining state.

    My kind and understanding neighbors waited patiently in their new wetlands for my return a few days later. After trains planes and shuttle buses I returned to Jackson at 2:45 AM. The next morning I was overwhelmed with work from being away and was under the understanding the problem had been taken care of. At 5pm my neighbor came over wearing waiters. He had shut off the ditch and was going to work on my culvert. I was of course embarrassed and immediately threw on my waiters and got out every tool in the barn that might allow me to clear the roots.

    The lower two thirds of the 30-inch pipe was a solid mass of willow tree root. It was like a giant SOS pad with quarter inch to half inch steel cable running through it. Heavy strikes with a pick or digging bar would mostly just bounce off.

    With the help of some neighbors, I worked until dark in theigh deep water and managed to clear the culvert to about three feet deep into it. It was a little discouraging in that the deeper we got into the culvert the deeper the roots seemed to be going.

    The next day in the full light of day I was able to make a more accurate assessment of the situation. We had successfully cleared three feet into the pipe. Unfortunately, it was clear that the SOS pad ran a total of 12 feet deep into the culvert, so another 8 feet needed to be cleared. The other problem was that I couldn’t reach any farther into the pipe with the various digging tools I’d been using.

    Peak run off on the Snake River and several days of rain were compounding an already bad situation. The irrigation ditches on the West Bank of the Snake are a warren of trenches and headgates that cowboys have been digging for over a century to provide flood irrigation to their hay fields. No single person knows where they all are. By turning off the water in my ditch I was sending the water off into other ditches. It was only a matter of time before an angry rancher in his pick-up would be coming over six guns blazing or more likely a 2nd home owning dude rancher in his range rover with a lawsuit. Time was of the essence.

    A backhoe and new culvert was the obvious solution. There was just not enough time to put the logistics together. Not to mention the several thousand dollars that would have been involved was not exciting. My neighbor and actual born and raised Wyoming rancher described some strange contraptions he had seen engineered for the task. Though I do have “an awesome set of tools” in my knife shop the idea of designing, building and testing the ultimate tool for the job again didn’t seem like it would work with urgency of time involved. The water was still rising!

    Though I am sure ridiculous situations like this happen in every region of the US. This to me was the classic example of a time when a cowboy is faced with a big problem and there is no one to call for help. Two iconic Western phrases came to mind “Cowboy up” and “gitter’ done”. It was clear there was no alternative but to go frogman into the pipe.

    Though I think there is no formal training program for working in a 30 inch pipe two thirds full of freezing water that was snow a couple days before. I was well suited for the job. Years of whitewater kayaking, training in cave rescue as member of the local search and rescue team and of course years of working with a kitchen knife did have me well prepared for one of the nastiest, silliest, situations I’ve had to tackle in a lifetime of ridiculous activities.

    All that was left was to figure out what tools I would try out for the hand-to-hand combat with the Willow root mass. The nice Swedish hatchet I use for hunting was an obvious possibility. Having just arrived home from the Blade Show and a decisive victory in the Bread knife/ slicer showdown, I knew my new Super Bread knife would be the most likely tool to have any luck against natures SOS pad.

    After layering up in all of Patagoina’s finest wading gear and a headlamp I crawled/ swam into the pit. (A quick technical note, if you find yourself in a similar situation in the future I would recommend a full wetsuit, probably a 4/5 of 5/6. Waiters are great for standing in water but full submersion, not so much.) After a few deep breaths to brush aside the confined space, drowning panic, I was ready to get to work. I immediately realized there wasn’t nearly enough space to swing the hatchet, so it was Super Bread or nothing.

    I made few initial stabs into the mat and was pleasantly surprised that the super bread sunk right in. I then made some long slashes to try to cut some chunks lose. It passed through the mat like I was Luke Skywaker wielding a lightsaber. At this point, I started to get excited. This beast had turned back a 30 pound digging bar with 200 pounds of Ohio corn-fed, born again cowboy on the end and the super bread was going through it like it was tofu.

    I’ve only been making the Super Bread for 6 months and I don’t have any seconds or returns yet so I had to use a brand new unused one. Brand new they are wicked sharp. The question was how long the edge would hold up. I had 8 feet of SOS pad and steel cable to shred up. My knives have exceptional edge holding but I figured at some point in the project I would need to at least touch up the edge. Again, I was very pleasantly surprised. I was able to cut a 2ft x 2ft x 8ft channel through the root mat without any sharpening. I could feel the cutting edge slowing down a bit by the end but it still cut through nature’s steel wool with ease.

    An hour after I started the culvert was clear and there was nothing left to do but dry off and celebrate with a Pabst Blue Ribbon!

     

    So besides being the finest bread knife and all around slicer you will ever own, if you run into a twenty year old mat of willow tree roots it will work nicely on that as well.

    Check out my recipe for Coyote Loops freshest salad with hand cut, pan fried croutons. I cut the croutons that night with same Super Bread unsharpened from the days work.

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